Study: Secondhand Clothes May Not Cut New Buying ^{CEFR B2}

A new study examined how secondhand clothing affects overall fashion consumption. Using a nationally representative survey of 1,009 individuals in every US state, researchers analysed buying and discarding patterns in both resale and primary markets. They found a positive correlation: people who spend in the secondhand market also tend to spend more on new clothes, especially younger shoppers and frequent buyers.

More than 69% of respondents had purchased secondhand clothing at least once, and a cluster of 59% showed high consumption in both markets. Members of that group frequently returned items, kept garments for short periods, and had increased secondhand purchases since 2020. Younger adults were more engaged: 79% of 18-to-24-year-olds had bought secondhand, compared with 57% of those 65 and older, and students reported the highest use at 84%.

The authors draw on two behavioural theories to explain the results: the rebound effect, where efficiency gains raise demand, and moral licensing, where a virtuous act justifies later indulgence. "Our study provides strong evidence that secondhand clothing markets contribute to a self-reinforcing cycle of overconsumption," says Meital Peleg Mizrachi. The researchers recommend that resale platforms disclose metrics such as unsold inventory disposal rates and shipping-related emissions, noting there are no current policies in the United States or Europe regulating resale of secondhand clothes.