A new study examined how secondhand clothing affects overall fashion consumption. Using a nationally representative survey of 1,009 individuals in every US state, researchers analysed buying and discarding patterns in both resale and primary markets. They found a positive correlation: people who spend in the secondhand market also tend to spend more on new clothes, especially younger shoppers and frequent buyers.
More than 69% of respondents had purchased secondhand clothing at least once, and a cluster of 59% showed high consumption in both markets. Members of that group frequently returned items, kept garments for short periods, and had increased secondhand purchases since 2020. Younger adults were more engaged: 79% of 18-to-24-year-olds had bought secondhand, compared with 57% of those 65 and older, and students reported the highest use at 84%.
The authors draw on two behavioural theories to explain the results: the rebound effect, where efficiency gains raise demand, and moral licensing, where a virtuous act justifies later indulgence. "Our study provides strong evidence that secondhand clothing markets contribute to a self-reinforcing cycle of overconsumption," says Meital Peleg Mizrachi. The researchers recommend that resale platforms disclose metrics such as unsold inventory disposal rates and shipping-related emissions, noting there are no current policies in the United States or Europe regulating resale of secondhand clothes.
Difficult words
- secondhand — Previously owned items, not brand newsecondhand clothing, secondhand market, secondhand purchases
- resale — Selling goods that were previously ownedresale platforms
- consumption — Use, buying, or wearing of goodsoverconsumption
- correlation — A relationship where two things change togetherpositive correlation
- rebound effect — When efficiency gains cause more demand
- moral licensing — Feeling allowed to indulge after a good action
Tip: hover, focus or tap highlighted words in the article to see quick definitions while you read or listen.
Discussion questions
- Why might people who buy more secondhand clothing also buy more new clothes? Give two possible reasons from the article.
- How could resale platforms change their practices to reduce the cycle of overconsumption described in the study?
- Do you think governments should regulate resale of secondhand clothes? Why or why not, based on the article's points?
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